A lot of hard work and planning went into this magical moment.
"What the hell are we running for?!" This was the incredulous question breathlessly asked all along the trail in the pre-dawn darkness as we all burst from the final checkpoint on our way up to the Sun Gate.
Day 4
Wake up was set for 3 am. Excitement for our ultimate goal had the entire camp up a little earlier and hastily packing our personal daypacks. This was good news for the porters who had to strike the tents and run downhill to catch a train back to Cusco by 4 am. It meant they were going home to their families! How they made that train in that short amount of time, we will never know.
The porters brought us some hot tea and a breakfast snack bag to take with us to the final checkpoint, the official entrance to the famed Machu Picchu! The problem was, this last checkpoint didn't open until 5:30 am. Yawn! Everyone spread out on the ground to catch a quick nap and reserve their energy for the final challenge ahead.
Day 4
Wake up was set for 3 am. Excitement for our ultimate goal had the entire camp up a little earlier and hastily packing our personal daypacks. This was good news for the porters who had to strike the tents and run downhill to catch a train back to Cusco by 4 am. It meant they were going home to their families! How they made that train in that short amount of time, we will never know.
The porters brought us some hot tea and a breakfast snack bag to take with us to the final checkpoint, the official entrance to the famed Machu Picchu! The problem was, this last checkpoint didn't open until 5:30 am. Yawn! Everyone spread out on the ground to catch a quick nap and reserve their energy for the final challenge ahead.
Two hours of trying to get some rest while avoiding llama poop on the ground was a tough task. We were so glad it wasn't raining.
All the various trekking groups were packed into this one line waiting to get through the checkpoint onto the narrow trail. Our guides told us all to get as quickly as possible to the Sun Gate and hopefully we would get to see the sun rise over majestic Machu Picchu.
The chaos that was about to unfold was not at all expected. As the checkpoint opened and each guide cleared his/her group, the insane dash for the Sun Gate began. We were still nearly a 45 minute hike from the Sun Gate and people were literally sprinting down the trail. So, what do you do when all that is happening? Just like lemmings, you run too!
At first I thought we might have been transported to Spain and we had a herd of angry bulls chasing us. All the peace and tranquility we had achieved in the previous days were gone in a flash as we jostled and pushed our way past people. Civility was forgotten on this part of the trail. No one wanted to let people pass. I kept looking over my shoulder to make sure Lori was still there and she was, with the same confused look on her face that I'm sure was on mine, "WHY are we running?!"
Fatigue and the ridiculously frenetic pace slowed many hikers down, but the final obstacle were the 'monkey steps' located just prior to the Sun Gate. These near vertical steps put a complete halt to all the running. We had to climb these steps almost like a ladder, hand over hand. Once that task was completed it was only a short five minute dash to the Sun Gate for what was supposed to be a spectacular first view of the world famous Machu Picchu.
To our dismay, our first glimpse of Machu Picchu was completely shrouded in heavy clouds.
The chaos that was about to unfold was not at all expected. As the checkpoint opened and each guide cleared his/her group, the insane dash for the Sun Gate began. We were still nearly a 45 minute hike from the Sun Gate and people were literally sprinting down the trail. So, what do you do when all that is happening? Just like lemmings, you run too!
At first I thought we might have been transported to Spain and we had a herd of angry bulls chasing us. All the peace and tranquility we had achieved in the previous days were gone in a flash as we jostled and pushed our way past people. Civility was forgotten on this part of the trail. No one wanted to let people pass. I kept looking over my shoulder to make sure Lori was still there and she was, with the same confused look on her face that I'm sure was on mine, "WHY are we running?!"
Fatigue and the ridiculously frenetic pace slowed many hikers down, but the final obstacle were the 'monkey steps' located just prior to the Sun Gate. These near vertical steps put a complete halt to all the running. We had to climb these steps almost like a ladder, hand over hand. Once that task was completed it was only a short five minute dash to the Sun Gate for what was supposed to be a spectacular first view of the world famous Machu Picchu.
To our dismay, our first glimpse of Machu Picchu was completely shrouded in heavy clouds.
(Pant, pant pant!)"We finally made it! (Pant, pant, pant!) Our first view of Machu Pi...what the hell?! Where is it?"
After waiting for about 15 minutes and with the clouds not budging an inch, we decided as a group to descend to the guard hut that would hopefully give us the classic 'postcard view' of Machu Picchu.
Another 30 minutes of hiking would bring us to the goal moment that we had so long envisioned.
Another 30 minutes of hiking would bring us to the goal moment that we had so long envisioned.
Ahhhhhh...there it is! So worth the climb.
Lori and I stood in silent awe of this magnificent site that we had only seen in other people's pictures.
After a moment to soak it all in, we all headed down to the platform to get group and individual photos. By the time we arrived at the entrance, busloads of tourists who were all freshly showered and bright-eyed were already milling around.
They looked appalled and annoyed with us as we maneuvered into position to get our photos taken. Lori and I were thinking to ourselves, "We just walked FOUR days up and down mountains to get here. We deserve this photo opp more than you, so step aside!!" We later found out that all the people in our group felt the exact same way. We all laughed about it later while sipping pisco sours and beer. However, at the time, the annoyance was real.
After a moment to soak it all in, we all headed down to the platform to get group and individual photos. By the time we arrived at the entrance, busloads of tourists who were all freshly showered and bright-eyed were already milling around.
They looked appalled and annoyed with us as we maneuvered into position to get our photos taken. Lori and I were thinking to ourselves, "We just walked FOUR days up and down mountains to get here. We deserve this photo opp more than you, so step aside!!" We later found out that all the people in our group felt the exact same way. We all laughed about it later while sipping pisco sours and beer. However, at the time, the annoyance was real.
We couldn't have wished for a better group to share this adventure with. Thank you all!
After everyone took the photos they wanted we went back to the entrance of the park to get our return train tickets and store our backpacks. Many went to use the first legitimate (and clean!) bathroom in four days.
We then got our guided tour of this historic site. We learned that many believe that Machu Picchu was a resort for the king and wealthy people of the Incan empire.
More of the Machu Picchu site still lies hidden deep below in the jungle, but these ruins are yet to be uncovered. It's chilling to know that there are other Inca steps in the surrounding mountains that lead to still yet-to-be discovered historic Inca ruins.
We then got our guided tour of this historic site. We learned that many believe that Machu Picchu was a resort for the king and wealthy people of the Incan empire.
More of the Machu Picchu site still lies hidden deep below in the jungle, but these ruins are yet to be uncovered. It's chilling to know that there are other Inca steps in the surrounding mountains that lead to still yet-to-be discovered historic Inca ruins.
This royal toilet in the king's quarters had indoor plumbing.
The outside of the temple was built with different stone and with a much more precise cut. A credit card couldn't even fit in the gaps between stones.
The stone to the king's house and temple were cut with such precision that no mortar was needed.
Machu Picchu was discoved in 1912 by Hiram Bingham and was built by the Incas in the mid 1400s. It was only inhabited for about 80 years total. Many believe the Spanish conquests of the empire affected the population through contact with Western infectious diseases or violent destruction.
It was only believed that 750 people lived at Machu Picchu at any one time. Slaves did not build any of the structures in the Inca Empire. They used what was called an "Inca tax." If a family could not afford to pay the taxes for the year, family members had to give their time toward the construction of structures around the empire.
It was only believed that 750 people lived at Machu Picchu at any one time. Slaves did not build any of the structures in the Inca Empire. They used what was called an "Inca tax." If a family could not afford to pay the taxes for the year, family members had to give their time toward the construction of structures around the empire.
Randy standing near the quarry at the top of the mountain where they excavated the stone used to build Machu Picchu.
The Incas were experts in astronomy. This huge rock was carved to match the four points on the compass rose. If you line your compass on this rock today, it is still spot on. Yeah, we tried it and it was.
This complex housed the hospital and the ceremonial virgins that lived at Machu Picchu.
We were getting a little tired and ready to call it a day, but there was one more huge surprise that Machu Picchu had left. One of our fellow trekkers, Steve, decided that this would be the day that he would propose to his girlfriend, Ali. We had been talking to them during the entire hike and had become good friends. We had no idea this was about to happen until Steve pulled Lori aside and told her his secret plan. He asked if we would help video it and take some pictures. Of course we said, yes!
Ali taking pictures, having no idea that in less than a minute she would be engaged.
Steve gave me his camera to take video, and Lori used our camera to take pictures during the proposal. It was a complete surprise and a wonderful moment of pure joy (and happy tears) as we got to share this amazing occasion with Steve and Ali.
Ali said she was thinking at this moment, "What the heck are you doing down there!?" She was completely shocked. Great job, Steve!
The best moment was when Ali realized what was actually happening. Everyone around clapped and congratulated them. Lori kept yelling out, "They just got engaged!" to anyone within earshot, causing bursts of applause to ring out.
The happy couple. Congratulations Steve and Ali!
After the proposal, we all chattered excitedly together before leaving our newly engaged friends to have some time alone to process their romantic milestone moment.
In total, we spent about three hours at Machu Picchu, exploring as much of it as possible. Once darker clouds started to move in and it looked like rain was imminent, we decided to take the bus back down to the town of Aguas Calientes. In this town we would wait to catch our train to take us back to Ollantaytambo. From there, we'd catch a bus back to Cusco.
Our train did not leave until after 6 pm, so instead of shopping, we all just sat around a local restaurant together and celebrated our major success. Double Dutch even taught us a fun drinking game that we played for hours. The time spent together passed in a flash. Before we realized it, we found ourselves running to catch our train!
I promised you a funny story about the Double Dutch nickname we called our friends from The Netherlands. Steve, from our hiking group, coined their clever nickname and being the good sports that Rene and Reni were, they never questioned it except privately with each other. When we asked them later about it, Reni told us that they both thought it had to do with "something adult or naughty" and were planning to research the term on the internet when they got back to Cusco. We all laughed hysterically and then told them the name comes from a style of jumping rope. I guess we can never assume that everyone gets our slang.
In total, we spent about three hours at Machu Picchu, exploring as much of it as possible. Once darker clouds started to move in and it looked like rain was imminent, we decided to take the bus back down to the town of Aguas Calientes. In this town we would wait to catch our train to take us back to Ollantaytambo. From there, we'd catch a bus back to Cusco.
Our train did not leave until after 6 pm, so instead of shopping, we all just sat around a local restaurant together and celebrated our major success. Double Dutch even taught us a fun drinking game that we played for hours. The time spent together passed in a flash. Before we realized it, we found ourselves running to catch our train!
I promised you a funny story about the Double Dutch nickname we called our friends from The Netherlands. Steve, from our hiking group, coined their clever nickname and being the good sports that Rene and Reni were, they never questioned it except privately with each other. When we asked them later about it, Reni told us that they both thought it had to do with "something adult or naughty" and were planning to research the term on the internet when they got back to Cusco. We all laughed hysterically and then told them the name comes from a style of jumping rope. I guess we can never assume that everyone gets our slang.
Our wonderful trekking group! Clockwise from the left are Ali, Randy, Lori, Camila, Fonton, Steve, Reni and Rene.
Our guides Jackson and Juan Carlos giving us pisco sours to toast our successful Inca Trail hike and also Steve and Ali's engagement.
We did it and we got a certificate and t-shirt to prove it!
This was a monumental trek that we got to share with some truly special people. We are happy we chose to do it at this juncture in our lives because it was an experience that will be indelibly etched in our memories.
Click on a picture below for captions and a larger image.
Click on a picture below for captions and a larger image.
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